SOME TIPS FOR YOU AND YOUR NEW PUPPY!

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1). HARNESS
Get him/her a harness, not just a collar. It's easier to teach him/her to walk with you if you don't have something around his/her neck choking him/her. Teach him/her to walk with you. Don't let him/her pull you. If he/she does pull, say "NO", and firmly pull him back. Be consistent and he/she will learn. There are several dog training shows online that will give you a lot of tips on training.


2). PRAISE
Always praise him/her for good behavior. It's better to praise him/her verbally instead of giving him/her a treat, otherwise he/she will come to expect a treat every time. You want him/her to do the right thing because he/she wants to please you, not just to get a treat, but there is definitely a place for treats!


3). TOYS AND TREATS
Any kind of puppy treats are fine, but try to get things made in the USA. Something to chew on to help with his teething; rope/balls.


4). PARVO VIRUS
Your puppy will already have 1 vaccination (7-in-1) Unless it is older than 8wks! that includes distemper, parvo, etc. when you get him/her. This starts him/her on building his/her own immune system, but he/she needs more vaccinations to protect him/her. You have a given time to take him to your vet for an examination, as per the purchase agreement. Don't take him/her outside and put him/her down on the grass. Also don't let him/her chew or play with your shoes. A sick dog could have walked through your yard or without knowing it, you could have walked where a sick dog had been and your puppy could get sick just from chewing or licking your shoes! The Vet can advise you on what your puppy needs to be completely safe. I don't take them out until they have had their 3rd or 4th vaccination because parvo is so prevalent and the puppy doesn't have complete immunity for a while. Your vet will tell you when you can take him/her out.


5). CRYING
When you bring a puppy home, keep in mind that this puppy has spent all of it's life surrounded by the warm bodies of it's mother and siblings. When we move this puppy into your home, we are actually separating them from it's family, so it should be no surprise that there will be some initial anxiety and grief on the puppy's part. Separation discomfort is a normal part of acclimating to a new home and family, and gentle patience is called for.


6). SCHEDULE

Pups will adapt to your schedule quickly. 
I get up around 6:45 am take out ASAP to potty. 

Feed them 1/4 a cup around 8 am, take out to potty ASAP.

Pup will play for a while and around 10 AM they crash for a couple of hours. When pup wakes up, take to potty ASAP. 

Feed them 1/4 a cup around 12, take out ASAP, play time and crash again.

When pup gets up take out ASAP, feed dinner around 5 pm, take out ASAP.


7). FOOD 
Instinct puppy food. 1/4 Breakfast, 1/4 Lunch, 1/4 Dinner. The first few days they may not eat all food, just be patient. 


   8). WATER
Make sure your puppy has access to water at all times. I like rabbit water bottles, you can hang on crate/playpen. Pups have so much energy at times spilling their water bowl. 


9). TRAINING 
Puppies need to learn boundaries and need to know you're in charge. A group class gives him the socialization he needs to build relationships with people ad other dogs. It's also important to get an early start socializing your puppy with other dogs so her learns how to get along with them. This will help prevent aggressive behavior. Taking your puppy new places is a great experience for both of you. 


10). CLICKER TRAINING

Properly used as a reward marker, a clicker significantly enhances your communication with your furry family and speeds up training process.


11). INTRODUCING YOUR PUPPY

Introducing CHILDREN/ADULT DOG. 

Never leave them puppy and adult dog alone until your 100% sure ADULT dog has adjusted. 
•Children need guidance on how to be gently pup, children and pups must always be supervised and that adults are the only family members aloud to pick up pup.
•Meeting Resident Dogs-do a simple scent exchange between your new pup and resident dogs. Before introductions, switch their collars or leashes. So when they do meet for the first time, there is an immediate scent familiarity. Have the initial meeting in a neutral location away from the home. Have some treats on hand, so after initial sniffing, everyone can have a treat.
•Meeting Resident Cats-Your feline family members need special consideration, as they may be less enthusiastic and most stressed by the arrival of the new pup. Have special treats for cats on hand so that each time the cat encounters the puppy, something good happens. Do not allow the puppy to chase your cat, cats have very sharp claws. 


12). CRATE TRAINING

Crate training provides your puppy with a secure, safe area where he can retreat when tired. Put in some soft bedding and even a treat to help coax him in at first so he learns it is a good place to be. A crate should not be used for discipline or punishment.


 13). NAUSEA & LOOSE STOOL

Nausea sometimes occurs but don't be alarmed! Puppies often get motion sickness in the car, just bring a towel, soft blanket and some baby wipes just in case.


14). PUPPY PROOFING
•Keep your puppy away from anything that could potentially hurt him. Use electrical cord protectors, and remove poisonous plants. Puppies love to chew, so it's important to redirect them to their safe chew toys such as Nylabones or Kongs.
 

15). PET INSURANCES 
Pups can easily find trouble, this will help with unexpected costly trip to the Vet. Talk to your vet about this. 


16). PENS
If you work all day, it is very hard on your puppy and really not good for him/her to be crated all day. I think that a pen like at least the size of a play pen would be perfect for him/her and very easy for you when you want to keep him/her out of the way, but still with you. It is not so confining so he/she can get some exercise too and you can talk to him/her or give him/her a little pat as you go by. Put his/her crate, with a nice soft pillow or towel inside of it, inside the pen with the door taken off or propped open. Put his/her food and water next to the crate and his/her pee pad/paper at the other end of the pen. Since he/she is used to that set-up here, he/she should be happy to stay there and sleep there too. He/She will probably go into the crate to sleep at night without any fuss. Some of my buyers have gotten them and said that the puppy seemed to feel right at home in it since that is what he/she was used to. If you don't get a pen then you can crate your puppy at night and it will be easier to potty train him/her. He/She will have to get used to the crate but will probably cry whenever you put him/her in it. You will just have to let him/her cry. Eventually he/she will get used to it.


17). POTTY TRAINING
Consistency and patience are the keys in successfully housebreaking your puppy. Housebreaking can be a time-consuming process. When you first get up, take pup out of the crate. Looks for signs, such as circling, that your puppy needs to go. A puppy should be taken outside to the designated "potty area" every two hours, up to six times a day, particularly after meals. 


18). BRUSHING/GROOMING
The best kind of brush to use when he/she is still a baby, is a hairbrush and also a metal comb. As he/she gets older, his/her coat will be thick so a “slicker brush” is best because it will get down and through it. Brush him/her as often as you can, to get him/her used to it. A couple of helpful tips here: most dogs don’t like their feet or their lips/mouths touched so you should handle and play with his feet and toes. Open his mouth and play/tug lightly with his lips and tongue. This will help the groomer, or you, when he has to have his claws trimmed and his teeth cleaned. I only bathe my dogs about once a week, unless they get very, very dirty.


19). SHAMPOO

*I uses an ant-bacterial/act-fungal shampoo. It is good for keeping the normal skin bacterial levels balanced. All dog breeds can have skin allergies or skin sensitivities.


20). HYPOGLYCEMIA

Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is common problem in small puppies, young pups have tons of energy. If left untreated this can be fatal. BEWARE of the signs of hypoglycemia, weakness, lethargy, twitching, trembling, seizures, coma.  If you suspect something is going on QUICKLY RUB KARO SYRUP along the gums, then get your puppy to the VET ASAP. Also to help keep your puppy hydrated you can put unflavored Pedialyte to their water.


21). TEARING EYES
Tear stains is cause by teething, this will clear up on it's own. ANGELS EYES is something people uses to help with the
 brown coloring around the eyes. (Just do not get in the eyes or it will make it worse!)


22). BITING
Your puppy will probably bite your fingers when you are playing with him as that is the nature of the wild heritage from the wolf family. You must stop this right away - don't allow it to start. When he does this, tap him on the nose and firmly say "NO!" and give him a rawhide chew or rope toy to chew on. Be consistent! Don't correct him one time and then let him do it again. It's 'cute' until it gets so bad that he does it whenever he wants to. It won't be so 'cute' when he nips at a little child! Stop it immediately, before he starts doing it all the time! This is extremely important! You don't want a "biter" in your family!


23). CHEWING
Your puppy is teething and needs to chew on something. When you see him chewing, say "NO" firmly and give him a toy or a rawhide bone to replace what he was going after and praise him when he starts to chew. PLEASE DON'T use hot sauce!! Some people will tell you to do this, but it is cruel and will burn puppy's mouth!!


24). VETERINARIANS
Take the time to find a good vet. You can tell when you go in whether they like animals or are just there to collect a pay check! The waiting and examining rooms and tables should be very, very clean. They should be willing to take the time to listen to you and when you ask for advice, should be willing to answer all of your questions and explain everything to you. Remember that your dog is a member of your family and, just as you would do for yourself, you want the best doctor you can find for him. Once you find a good vet, don't let him/her get away!!!


25). Ears

Pups are born with their ears folded and sealed. Some pups ears will be up by 6 weeks, while others can take 6 plus months. I recommend to keep ears shaved or trimmed to keep weight of the ears so the cartilage can hardened. 




Any questions, feel free to call!!

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